Wrap Dress Muslin, Part II

When we last left, the muslin was in a questionable state. My biggest problem was how to handle the bust darts. They are in an nontraditional location for bust darts (darts normally “point” towards the bust point to help with the shaping of the bodice) and neither of the two (per side) were pointing where I would think they should point.

Bust darts are off to the side and go past the bust point

Bust darts are off to the side and go past the bust point

Oh, and there’s a ridiculous amount of ease in the bust area (about 4″ of ease for size 12), but since it fit when I tried it on with the bra I was using, I’m fine with it. Back to the “dart issue”. I mulled it over in my head for a while, posted about it in PatternReview.com‘s forums, chatted with another blogger who also created the same dress to see what she did about it. Ultimately, I’ve decide to leave the darts alone. It’s going to be a headache to move them around, and I’m Gertie placed them there for a reason. Far be it from me to screw up a design that she created (and probably make a bigger mess of it for myself) just because it doesn’t fit neatly into the box my engineering brain thinks it should fit into.

Next, I wanted to make sure (because of previous short waist issues) that the waist length really was fine. I went back to the muslin and drew lines for the waist position and even lines for the button and button hole placement.

Muslin with lines

Waist line drawn and buttonhole and button markers

The waist location was perfectly located at my natural waist, so no back waist length changes necessary (whew, that was going to not be so fun with this dress if I did). Also, I had the wrap backwards from the first time, so when I tried it on again, I made sure to pin it up exactly where the button would be. Fortunately, that lead me to another change I would need to make: the hip width.

It was actually a little tight. I haven’t been working out or eating as well as I was back in August (after I got sick in September, I pretty much fell off the bandwagon and am trying to find the motivation to get back on it). Since the muslin waist and hip are the pattern’s largest size already, I had to grade out a total of 3″ in the hip width. It was fairly easy, and I just slipped a piece of pattern paper under the pattern and extended the width at the hips. Should still have 2.5″ ease in the hips!

Widening the pattern at the hip

Widening the pattern at the hip

Well, I threw the fabric in the dry with a Woolite dry cleaning sheet, and I’m ready to start cutting out this pattern!

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